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May 07, 2023

Alex Mill's Pleated Pants Will Convince You to Ditch the Flat

By Jake Woolf

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Only a handful of years ago, pleated pants might’ve triggered flashbacks to the fits your dad wore to the "nice" restaurant in town. They shouldn't. For a few seasons now, nearly all of the raddest trousers we’ve spotlighted here have been gloriously pleated, and frankly, we’re glad to have them back in our lives. Pleats serve a functional purpose: they allow for more breathing room where it matters most. But beyond the utility, they also look particularly right in 2022, when dressing like a swagged-out octogenarian has never been cooler and appreciation for the bigger-is-better style of the ‘80s is at an all-time high. Naturally, aggressively-pleated designer versions abound. But if you’re looking to ease into the burgeoning pleats resurgence, Alex Mill's aptly named standard chino is the pair to start with.

Alex Mill's whole MO centers around making unfussy menswear you’ll want to hold onto for the long run. We’re talking worn-in Oxford-cloth button-ups, washed pocket tees, and an especially strong range of overshirts that take all the effort out of getting dressed. None of it will help you go viral on TikTok, exactly, but the whole range will invite genuine "Where’d you get those?" comments from everyone at your next after-hours function.

The brand's pleated pants deliver on that premise to a T. For starters, unlike the triple-pleated poly-blend behemoths ran into the ground in the late ‘90s, Alex Mill's riff on the style only incorporates a single pleat. They also come in all the colors you know and love (khaki, olive, navy, black) and boast a tapered fit that's generous by the waist before slimming down to something more like a straight-fit at the ankle. Plus, they’re made with a hint of stretch for added flexibility and are designed with the gentlest of crops so you don't have to do any post-purchase tailoring—meaning they’ll sync up seamlessly with your favorite high-tops fresh out of the box.

I’m 5’9" and blessed with the thighs of an NFL running back, so I was surprised at how good these pants looked on me without doing a damn thing to them. (My height teeters on the cutoff between the brand's regular and longer length, and the former fit me perfectly.) As many other sturdy dudes can attest to, pants billed as slim-fit often end up skintight, and ones designed to be big and baggy do nothing but make me look short and stocky. (Or, y'know, shorter and stockier.) But the pleats here—in tandem with the extra fabric gusseting by the crotch—help these chinos feel blessedly comfortable, while the slight taper works to streamline my overall silhouette. If you need proof that they also look good on slim, tall dudes—spoiler alert: most clothes do—don't take my word for it: Ryan Reynolds wore the same pair a few weeks back and effortlessly freaked ‘em to their full potential.

If you’ve been a flat-front loyalist for the last few years, we don't blame you. (Alex Mill sells a non-pleated version of the style for that exact reason.) But if you’re finally ready to see what all the hullabaloo is about, these are the pants you’ve been searching for. At $135 a pop they’re not a bargain bin deal, but when you start wearing ‘em every day—and trust us, you will—it's hard to argue with the ROI.

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